Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Tuesday April 15th 2008: Arts and crafts
Today was a great day. After day care, I went to see Mama Bakhita but she didn’t need me so I ended up working in the sewing room. I organized the supplies, assessed what needs to be purchased, mainly fabric. They actually have quite a lot of thread. I worked with Tobias, who aside from sewing, has also been helping with physiotherapy. He is trying to train Ernesta, one of the girls living at the center. There is a language barrier but we end up understanding each other. The youth has been making dish mats. Earring, necklaces so it can be sold and I hope to help with that.
Monday April 14th 2008:
Spent the day typing emails for Mama Bakhita and trying to download my pictures on my blog without success.
I had my first Swahili lesson which Alice kindly set up for me before leaving.
Today somehow was frustrating. It’s the first day where I feel off balance here and am having trouble adjust. I don’t even want to write about it as I was generally in a really bad mood today so it’s best to sleep on it.
I had my first Swahili lesson which Alice kindly set up for me before leaving.
Today somehow was frustrating. It’s the first day where I feel off balance here and am having trouble adjust. I don’t even want to write about it as I was generally in a really bad mood today so it’s best to sleep on it.
Sunday April 13th 2008: Back in Morogoro and the experience at Saba Saba market
We leave Mvomero and catch the 6:30 bus back to Morogoro. It is a very nice Dalla Dalla. I sit next to a woman and her daughter. Bags and boxes appear and disappear around me as passengers board and leave. The driver’s assistant chats me up and rubs my fake wedding ring. Also admires my hiking boots and knocks on them like they are wood and keeps saying knuckles and showing me his hands! I laugh as I don’t understand but I am trying to engage anyway. The little girl next to me seams very happy about where she is going. She looks like she is about 8 but here you never know as people are so short and younger looking. I can’t sleep as I am too stimulated by watching the people and the road. A Masai woman gets on the bus and looks very distinguished. She is wearing a beautiful white beaded necklace
2 and ½ hours later we get to Morogoro and switch to a regular run down Dalla Dalla to get back to the Amani center. We decide to relax until 12pm when we take a taxi back to Morogoro to go to Saba Saba, this crazy street market where you can find just about everything at the risk of getting mugged. I get 2 tangas. They are traditional fabric women use to wrap around their bodies in many different ways. Eventually a man does try to steel from my pocket and I grab his arm yelling no and he stops. If you yell, the thieves stop as they risk being stoned if caught by the police.
When we get back to where the buses are, the road is filled with mud deep in certain parts. Michael and I step into a deep patch and actually can’t get our flip-flops out. When I finally get my feet out, a man kindly starts to clean them.
2 and ½ hours later we get to Morogoro and switch to a regular run down Dalla Dalla to get back to the Amani center. We decide to relax until 12pm when we take a taxi back to Morogoro to go to Saba Saba, this crazy street market where you can find just about everything at the risk of getting mugged. I get 2 tangas. They are traditional fabric women use to wrap around their bodies in many different ways. Eventually a man does try to steel from my pocket and I grab his arm yelling no and he stops. If you yell, the thieves stop as they risk being stoned if caught by the police.
When we get back to where the buses are, the road is filled with mud deep in certain parts. Michael and I step into a deep patch and actually can’t get our flip-flops out. When I finally get my feet out, a man kindly starts to clean them.
Saturday April 12th 2008: Sun in Mvomero
Today is my second day in Mvomero. We get up early so we can help farming but we cannot do so because there are now thorns in the ground due to the heavy rains. So we end up walking into town before lunch to simply get batteries and try to locate Mama Bakhita, Dr Ken and Dr Anne for lunch. As usual, people say hello, especially children who want to try out their English. We end up not finding our lunch party and just spending time at the local café called Go and return. It is almost like a cement hut with a t.v. where people gather at night. We watch a rap show with videos of Swahili rap and Taabar, the local music.
At night, we have songs and dance as it is Alice’s last time in Mvomero so it is a special occasion. We all gather in the dining area with just a lamp torch. The teens sing for Alice, one of them raps and reminds me of my brother Joseph. The evening is filled with joy and I am still amazed at the positive and friendly attitude people have here.
At night, we have songs and dance as it is Alice’s last time in Mvomero so it is a special occasion. We all gather in the dining area with just a lamp torch. The teens sing for Alice, one of them raps and reminds me of my brother Joseph. The evening is filled with joy and I am still amazed at the positive and friendly attitude people have here.
Friday April 11th 2008: The morning assembly and leaving for Mvomero
At morning assembly, Mama Bakhita shared with us that today is the anniversary of her son’s death. His name was Eric and he died suddenly 4 years ago in his thirties. Bakhita cried and it was very moving.
Afterwards, I finish typing up the grant request. Then we head out to Mvomero, the farm owned by Amani. It is 40km away, about an hour drive on the dirt roads here that are filled with massive holes and puddles. The rain has been very heavy. Alice, Rachel and myself get on the back of the pick up truck owned by Amani. It’s rainy and windy and we are sort of getting slapped by the elements but it is so much fun to be on the back of the truck. Many people wave and say hello. We drive by so many Masai men as we are entering a more Masai populated area but I cannot take picture due to the speed and I have to hold on to the rail! The road is so bumpy I don’t want to fall off. We also drive by a zebra and ostrich farm. Mountains in the nearby distance surround us, the clouds are in and out but the light has an amazing quality here. I feel like I haven’t breathed such fresh air in a long time.
The man at the back of the truck is called Nalenti. He is mentally handicapped but very physically able and helps around the centre. Her laughs and talks a lot and can just fill a room with joy. He is quite incredible actually.
When we arrive, the center is much smaller than in Chamwino Morogoro. It is surrounded by fields, a pig and chicken farm. There isn’t electricity or running water but a well with a pump right outside. The cooking is done outside in a hut. Most of the kids who live here are in their teens and help at the farm. There is one very little girl who is autistic. When she gets excited which is quite often, she shouts and sometimes hits. She is incontinent and a rape victim. She is about 8 years old and very pretty.
I go sign the guest book of course. I get a tour of the rest of the facilities where seminars and workshops are held. They are building benches for the classrooms and I also get to see the arts and crafts work. Beautiful wooden earrings are drying. There are also hand made cards being made by a local artist who does everything with dried banana leaves. Then we hang out with the youth.
For dinner we are invited to the church to have dinner with the priest. We drive there in the back of the truck again into the night which again is so much fun. I feel like I am 15 again. Dr Ken and Dr Anne have joined us so it’s more of a formal dinner.
Later we come back to the residence. Rachel, Alice and I are sharing a room.
Afterwards, I finish typing up the grant request. Then we head out to Mvomero, the farm owned by Amani. It is 40km away, about an hour drive on the dirt roads here that are filled with massive holes and puddles. The rain has been very heavy. Alice, Rachel and myself get on the back of the pick up truck owned by Amani. It’s rainy and windy and we are sort of getting slapped by the elements but it is so much fun to be on the back of the truck. Many people wave and say hello. We drive by so many Masai men as we are entering a more Masai populated area but I cannot take picture due to the speed and I have to hold on to the rail! The road is so bumpy I don’t want to fall off. We also drive by a zebra and ostrich farm. Mountains in the nearby distance surround us, the clouds are in and out but the light has an amazing quality here. I feel like I haven’t breathed such fresh air in a long time.
The man at the back of the truck is called Nalenti. He is mentally handicapped but very physically able and helps around the centre. Her laughs and talks a lot and can just fill a room with joy. He is quite incredible actually.
When we arrive, the center is much smaller than in Chamwino Morogoro. It is surrounded by fields, a pig and chicken farm. There isn’t electricity or running water but a well with a pump right outside. The cooking is done outside in a hut. Most of the kids who live here are in their teens and help at the farm. There is one very little girl who is autistic. When she gets excited which is quite often, she shouts and sometimes hits. She is incontinent and a rape victim. She is about 8 years old and very pretty.
I go sign the guest book of course. I get a tour of the rest of the facilities where seminars and workshops are held. They are building benches for the classrooms and I also get to see the arts and crafts work. Beautiful wooden earrings are drying. There are also hand made cards being made by a local artist who does everything with dried banana leaves. Then we hang out with the youth.
For dinner we are invited to the church to have dinner with the priest. We drive there in the back of the truck again into the night which again is so much fun. I feel like I am 15 again. Dr Ken and Dr Anne have joined us so it’s more of a formal dinner.
Later we come back to the residence. Rachel, Alice and I are sharing a room.
Thursday April 10th 2008: Working with Mama Bakhita, the founder of the Amani center
I have been helping Mama Bakhita with typing up a grant request to the Swiss women’s catholic league. If the Amani center gets it, they will be granted 10 000 US$ Alice, the main volunteer who has been at the center for 7 months is leaving next week so I am taking over her secretarial duties. I am familiarizing myself with the whole process. Hopefully I can help raise money soon as that is one of my missions here. I help correct the English in the proposal draft and just make it sound nice. I also double check the budget proposal which turns out to be very helpful as I get to see how much things cost to run the Amani center and it’s different activities. I find out they have been doing seminars to train mothers of disabled children on how to care for them and they are very involved in mobile clinics. Their fieldwork is really trying to make a difference in the community where disabled children and their mothers are usually shunned.
In the evening I attend the assembly, which consists of prayers and singing. I respect the faith that is held here but it’s nice, as they are not trying to convert me either. I mainly really enjoy the singing and the communal aspect of their gathering.
In the evening I attend the assembly, which consists of prayers and singing. I respect the faith that is held here but it’s nice, as they are not trying to convert me either. I mainly really enjoy the singing and the communal aspect of their gathering.
Wednesday April 9th 2008: Day care, Masai man, orphanage visit and the Dalla Dalla bus
I wake up in the middle of the night to he sound of dogs howling. Even then, I feel very rested and happy to start my first day in Tanzania.
After breakfast we have day care with the children. They start the day by singing a Swahili song. Then they brush their teeth. Then they all run to the main hall where the teachers serve Chai tea and we all hang out and talk, dance. Apparently it varies every day. I have a nice time with a young boy named Abel who I later find out has epilepsy and was abandoned by his family. He looks like he is maybe 10 but he is actually 18. I am shocked when I find out his age. He speaks quite good English. We spend our time dancing to Bob Marley today and doing dance games like Musical chairs. One of the teens dances really well. His name is Jaji. We laugh because I am Gigi and he is Jaji: Gigi-Jaji… hahaha…
Then one of the volunteers, Rachel, asks me to come to the Mgologo orphanage with her. Before that, we have a few errands to run into town. We take the local bus called the Dalla Dalla and it is quite an experience. It’s basically a mini van equipped with 4 rows of seats and packed with people. It’s very communal and probably the best transportation experience I have had so far in my life. We have lunch when we get into Morogoro center, which consists of an omelet with fries inside. I know it sounds heavy but it’s basically a tortilla. The food is quite heavy here and the volunteers have all said they gained weight during their stay. So we will see how I look in 3 months!! At the lunch table, Rachel is scrolling through her camera pictures and a Masai man decides to join us and stares at the pictures with curiosity. I think he was worried at first that we were going to take a picture of him as they really dislike that. Not just the Masai actually, everyone except kids. You have to ask for permission or actually give money sometimes to take a photograph, which I can sort of understand depending on the situation. Anyway, back to the Masai man: he is extremely tall and impressive and carries a large knife attached to his belt. He is draped in the most amazing patterned fabric. I really enjoyed meeting a Masai for the 1st time.
Then we head for the orphanage, in a dalla dalla again. When we are dropped off, the path that leads to the building is very beautiful and lined with gigantic graceful trees, which I have only seen here. The orphanage is run by nuns and they have their hands full. We sign the guest book again. The children I see are between the ages of a few months old to around 8 years old. The infrastructure looks poor but functional. Although the poverty in the streets hasn’t shocked me so far, I am taken aback by the state of the building. But apparently this is much better than the state run orphanages. We spend time with the children entertaining them. They are desperate for attention and all want to be held. Some are fighting because of it. Then we go to the room where the 2 year olds are in large cots. The children seem well taken care of and are very lively. To put it plain and simple, they are all very cute and we seem to amuse them. I can see how you would get attached but I remind myself I will not make a difference in 1 visit…. I spend more time with a girl and a boy who just love to clap in my hands. In fact, the little boy laughs so hard each time that it feels like he is going to break a rib! The girl is shyer but you can see a smile forming on her face and that she is filled with curiosity. Then we go to the room where the toddlers sleep. There is actually a set of triplets and twins. I am amazed that the triplets survived but unfortunately their mother hasn’t. One of the twins looks like something is wrong with her. Then we help one of the helpers who work at the orphanage fold all the laundry. I have never seen a pile like that. I think she is really happy we came by, as I can’t imagine how long it would have taken her to fold the clothes. I guess there are about 30 children so it really adds up. Then it is time to leave so we can make it back before dark. But we will come back weekly.
Thank god Rachel is with me, as I cannot speak a word of Swahili. We get back on the Dalla dalla and this time it is a lot of fun. Everyone is talking and laughing like it’s a big social gathering inside the van. The lady across from me translates what is being said and apparently, one of the men has asked how much it would cost to spend the rest of his life with me. I laugh and wave my wedding finger. I have been wearing a ring as it is important here for a white woman traveling alone. When I show my hand, everyone starts laughing and it causes me to laugh and turn red at the same time.
When we get back I am so exhausted. We have dinner. The cooking is really good at the Amani center. I try Ugali for the first time, which is a rice paste you roll in your hands and dip into your food.
I feel happy with the simpler life here. I don’t even have electricity in my room but have had a very exciting day. I love it here and feel I was always meant to come to Africa.
After breakfast we have day care with the children. They start the day by singing a Swahili song. Then they brush their teeth. Then they all run to the main hall where the teachers serve Chai tea and we all hang out and talk, dance. Apparently it varies every day. I have a nice time with a young boy named Abel who I later find out has epilepsy and was abandoned by his family. He looks like he is maybe 10 but he is actually 18. I am shocked when I find out his age. He speaks quite good English. We spend our time dancing to Bob Marley today and doing dance games like Musical chairs. One of the teens dances really well. His name is Jaji. We laugh because I am Gigi and he is Jaji: Gigi-Jaji… hahaha…
Then one of the volunteers, Rachel, asks me to come to the Mgologo orphanage with her. Before that, we have a few errands to run into town. We take the local bus called the Dalla Dalla and it is quite an experience. It’s basically a mini van equipped with 4 rows of seats and packed with people. It’s very communal and probably the best transportation experience I have had so far in my life. We have lunch when we get into Morogoro center, which consists of an omelet with fries inside. I know it sounds heavy but it’s basically a tortilla. The food is quite heavy here and the volunteers have all said they gained weight during their stay. So we will see how I look in 3 months!! At the lunch table, Rachel is scrolling through her camera pictures and a Masai man decides to join us and stares at the pictures with curiosity. I think he was worried at first that we were going to take a picture of him as they really dislike that. Not just the Masai actually, everyone except kids. You have to ask for permission or actually give money sometimes to take a photograph, which I can sort of understand depending on the situation. Anyway, back to the Masai man: he is extremely tall and impressive and carries a large knife attached to his belt. He is draped in the most amazing patterned fabric. I really enjoyed meeting a Masai for the 1st time.
Then we head for the orphanage, in a dalla dalla again. When we are dropped off, the path that leads to the building is very beautiful and lined with gigantic graceful trees, which I have only seen here. The orphanage is run by nuns and they have their hands full. We sign the guest book again. The children I see are between the ages of a few months old to around 8 years old. The infrastructure looks poor but functional. Although the poverty in the streets hasn’t shocked me so far, I am taken aback by the state of the building. But apparently this is much better than the state run orphanages. We spend time with the children entertaining them. They are desperate for attention and all want to be held. Some are fighting because of it. Then we go to the room where the 2 year olds are in large cots. The children seem well taken care of and are very lively. To put it plain and simple, they are all very cute and we seem to amuse them. I can see how you would get attached but I remind myself I will not make a difference in 1 visit…. I spend more time with a girl and a boy who just love to clap in my hands. In fact, the little boy laughs so hard each time that it feels like he is going to break a rib! The girl is shyer but you can see a smile forming on her face and that she is filled with curiosity. Then we go to the room where the toddlers sleep. There is actually a set of triplets and twins. I am amazed that the triplets survived but unfortunately their mother hasn’t. One of the twins looks like something is wrong with her. Then we help one of the helpers who work at the orphanage fold all the laundry. I have never seen a pile like that. I think she is really happy we came by, as I can’t imagine how long it would have taken her to fold the clothes. I guess there are about 30 children so it really adds up. Then it is time to leave so we can make it back before dark. But we will come back weekly.
Thank god Rachel is with me, as I cannot speak a word of Swahili. We get back on the Dalla dalla and this time it is a lot of fun. Everyone is talking and laughing like it’s a big social gathering inside the van. The lady across from me translates what is being said and apparently, one of the men has asked how much it would cost to spend the rest of his life with me. I laugh and wave my wedding finger. I have been wearing a ring as it is important here for a white woman traveling alone. When I show my hand, everyone starts laughing and it causes me to laugh and turn red at the same time.
When we get back I am so exhausted. We have dinner. The cooking is really good at the Amani center. I try Ugali for the first time, which is a rice paste you roll in your hands and dip into your food.
I feel happy with the simpler life here. I don’t even have electricity in my room but have had a very exciting day. I love it here and feel I was always meant to come to Africa.
Tuesday April 8th 2008: The first day
Arrived in Dar Es Salaam at 6:30 am. Mama Bakhita, the founder of the Amani center, greeted me. There were 2 other guests, Dr Ken and Dr Anne who are from the main source of fundraising for Amani. They form a support group in the UK called Friends of Amani.
We embark on a 3-hour journey back to Morogoro, Chamwino, where the Amani headquarters are.
On the way, I can see villagers, Masai men walking along the road. I can see into the alleys converging onto the main street. A lot of ads here are painted in fun drawing styles. There are also a lot of little shops selling fruit along the way. Instantly, I am fascinated. Everyone walks in a peaceful, relaxed pace. Many walk for miles from their home to work or school. People have a reserved yet intense look in their eyes but maybe I am just very romantic and jetlagged.
As we got deeper into the countryside, away from Dar Es Salaam, the vegetation grew more dense and varied. I could recognize the trees I have only seen in movies about Africa like for example a Baobab tree. We even see a Baboon walking alongside of the road. We stop along the way for lunch. I doubt my conversation is very interesting as I am so jetlagged!
When we arrive at the Amani center, we are greeted by the youth at the center who are singing a song and have bouquets for us. It is really nice and I am just taking it all in. I meet the other volunteers: Alice, Rachel, Michael and Nicole, from the U.K and Tara from the U.S. Then we are invited to sign the guest book, which I later on find out you have to do whenever visiting any institution here. I walk around the center. It is modest and charming. There is a small garden inside the compound and around the different rooms as well as a hall where they hold masses, day care and meetings. My bedroom is at the corner of the building and has 2 windows. I can hear all the sounds of the nature surrounding us ranging from birds singing to monkeys to dogs fighting…. Then I hear the choir sing. It is so beautiful, it sounds like the soundtrack to the movie Mission, but in Swahili.
I feel so happy to be here and not scared at all. If anything, I really feel at peace.
We embark on a 3-hour journey back to Morogoro, Chamwino, where the Amani headquarters are.
On the way, I can see villagers, Masai men walking along the road. I can see into the alleys converging onto the main street. A lot of ads here are painted in fun drawing styles. There are also a lot of little shops selling fruit along the way. Instantly, I am fascinated. Everyone walks in a peaceful, relaxed pace. Many walk for miles from their home to work or school. People have a reserved yet intense look in their eyes but maybe I am just very romantic and jetlagged.
As we got deeper into the countryside, away from Dar Es Salaam, the vegetation grew more dense and varied. I could recognize the trees I have only seen in movies about Africa like for example a Baobab tree. We even see a Baboon walking alongside of the road. We stop along the way for lunch. I doubt my conversation is very interesting as I am so jetlagged!
When we arrive at the Amani center, we are greeted by the youth at the center who are singing a song and have bouquets for us. It is really nice and I am just taking it all in. I meet the other volunteers: Alice, Rachel, Michael and Nicole, from the U.K and Tara from the U.S. Then we are invited to sign the guest book, which I later on find out you have to do whenever visiting any institution here. I walk around the center. It is modest and charming. There is a small garden inside the compound and around the different rooms as well as a hall where they hold masses, day care and meetings. My bedroom is at the corner of the building and has 2 windows. I can hear all the sounds of the nature surrounding us ranging from birds singing to monkeys to dogs fighting…. Then I hear the choir sing. It is so beautiful, it sounds like the soundtrack to the movie Mission, but in Swahili.
I feel so happy to be here and not scared at all. If anything, I really feel at peace.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Monday, April 7th 2008: Transit
I left Los Angeles on Sunday night. British airways put me on an earlier flight as my original one was delayed and I would have missed my connection in Heathrow. On the plane, I watched “Capturing the Friedmans” on my laptop and then slept until 1h30 from our arrival time.
At Heathrow airport in London, I walked around ½ asleep. Mainly I felt exhausted from crying when saying goodbye to Ken. There was also some apprehension about starting something completely new and different.
At Heathrow airport in London, I walked around ½ asleep. Mainly I felt exhausted from crying when saying goodbye to Ken. There was also some apprehension about starting something completely new and different.
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