Friday May 2nd 2008: Visit to Ilkurot Masai village

After returning from Ngorongoro crater, I want to visit a Masai village as this is the homeland to their tribe. But almost give up as the price for the cultural tourism programs are ridiculous. I finally find a decent one to visit a Masai Boma specifically from Ilkurot. My guide will be Masai and comes to pick me up at 11 am. This is the only way you can see how they live unless invited by a friend. They are very private people and for example will rarely allow people to take pictures of them.
We spend the day walking. First we got to the Masai market where I get some fabrics. Then we take the Dalla Dalla to the Masai highlands. The views are breathtaking and it feels like we are high up. We run into the Sheppard and his children. My guide Jeremiah is great and explains to me many things about Masai culture, old and modern, how he started this cultural program for Ilkurot. We sit down a bit and then visit a manmade sand cave used to gather sand, which is then sold. The Masai are known to have a keen sense of business and this is one of the recent trades they have become involved with. I’ve noticed how much erosion there is in the region and how soft the soil is so it is very easy for them to dig very long tunnels into the hills. We walk into one which is maybe half a mile long. It’s both fascinating and scary as we go deeper into the darkness. I pull out a little flashlight and we cross a mother holding a bag of sand accompanied by her son who is holding an oil lamp. I wonder how safe this is. I thought I was going to visit natural caves but I guess this is just as interesting in a completely different way.
It has now been hours since we left Arusha for Ilkurot and our last stop is a Masai Boma (compound) where I visit a healer. He is away but his 1st wife is a trained healer too so she asks me what I would like to know. I have some questions but honestly do not feel like taking Masai medicine. Even my guide says maybe it’s best that way as it could make me sick from not being used to these types of cures (often made from cow blood)!
At the Boma, I most enjoy being around the healer’s children who are adorable and curious. The mother asks me if I want to take the youngest back to America as that would make her very happy and all I can do is smile and laugh as I can understand the question but also don’t quite know what to say.
I go back that evening with happy grin on my face. Today was great. We spent hours walking and I feel like I learnt something.
I go to bed early as I have to catch the bus tomorrow at 6:15 am. Am taking a Hood bus directly to Morogoro this time.