In the morning we shop for presents and manage to do some decent bargaining. Then we all take a random and run down bus to Dar Es Salaam.
Upon arrival in Arusha we are again harassed by flycatchers who follow us up to the guesthouse where we are staying. They wait for us and when we leave to look for a safari package to Ngorongoro crater, they are still following us. The thing is that flycatchers are notorious for stealing your money so that is why we have to be so cautious in who we chose for our safari. But we manage to find a good tour operator to take us down Ngorongoro crater.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Sunday April 27th 2008: Moshi
Moshi sits at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro. It is a much slower pace city than Arusha. There is tourism and shops but over all it is a low-key place. Today we visit the local market called Central Market. It is lined with mixed stands going from fresh vegetables, to rice and grains to cell phone to clothes.
Everyone speaks good English and looks wealthier than in Morogoro. There are many Masai but they are dressed differently than in the south.
In the beginning of the day we feel weary of men coming up to us as we assume they are safari touts. But we quickly realize it is a mistake to think that way, as some people just want to make conversation. So we do just that.
We end up running into another westerner from England named Dan who was with us on the bus. He is looking for travel mates to do a safari and Kilimanjaro. I want to do a safari from Arusha and Heather is climbing Kili. So we decide to pursue our travels together and meet for dinner.
Before dinner, we do go back to the hotel room, which has views of Kili and manage to see it at sunset. During the day you cannot see it as it is always covered with clouds. I take a snapshot and before you know it, it is gone as the city has too little electricity to even light it.
We head out to another delicious Indian eatery for dinner and enjoy a nice conversation. It turns out Dan is 18 and has been traveling for 7 months all over Asia and now Africa. I feel like I wish I had done that at his age or in my twenties.
When we get back to the hotel room we watch a CNN special on the world food crisis and I am shocked to think CNN is not that bad after all. Or is that just everywhere else but the States? Anyway, the world food crisis is frightening.
Everyone speaks good English and looks wealthier than in Morogoro. There are many Masai but they are dressed differently than in the south.
In the beginning of the day we feel weary of men coming up to us as we assume they are safari touts. But we quickly realize it is a mistake to think that way, as some people just want to make conversation. So we do just that.
We end up running into another westerner from England named Dan who was with us on the bus. He is looking for travel mates to do a safari and Kilimanjaro. I want to do a safari from Arusha and Heather is climbing Kili. So we decide to pursue our travels together and meet for dinner.
Before dinner, we do go back to the hotel room, which has views of Kili and manage to see it at sunset. During the day you cannot see it as it is always covered with clouds. I take a snapshot and before you know it, it is gone as the city has too little electricity to even light it.
We head out to another delicious Indian eatery for dinner and enjoy a nice conversation. It turns out Dan is 18 and has been traveling for 7 months all over Asia and now Africa. I feel like I wish I had done that at his age or in my twenties.
When we get back to the hotel room we watch a CNN special on the world food crisis and I am shocked to think CNN is not that bad after all. Or is that just everywhere else but the States? Anyway, the world food crisis is frightening.
Saturday April 26th 2008: 9 hour bus ride to Moshi, home to the Kilimanjaro
Early in the morning we take a Scandinavia bus to Moshi. We decide to play it safe and not take a cheap Hood bus as we have heard so many horror stories. This meant we had to spend the night in Dar as Scandinavia buses don’t run from Morogoro to Moshi. But once we settle in the bus, we are happy with our detour through Dar as we feel very comfortable, are served drinks and watch 2 movies. The 9 hours just fly as we watch the lush green scenery go by. We also know we will take a normal Hood or Abboud bus on the way back which will be very uncomfortable, and dangerous, so this is our way of pleasing ourselves at least halfway.
Of course we are also very excited as Moshi is known for its great coffee shops and we are dying for a true cup of locally grown Arabica.
On the way I can tell we are arriving in a much wealthier part of Tanzania as the land is cultivated and the houses look in better condition.
We arrive in Moshi at the bus station, immediately swarmed by flycatchers. That is the term used to describe the safari touts that try to sell you packages as Moshi is the departure place for Kilimanjaro climbers and only 1 hour away from Arusha, the departure place for the best safaris in Tanzania including the Serengeti. What they do is they try to spark a conversation, ask you where you are from, what is your name, etc… but there are 10 of them almost stopping you from getting to where you are going so it takes a good bit of patience and cultural etiquette not to be rude as we would be if this happened in our home countries. Heather is exhausted so I take on the role of “Let’s get to the hotel and the coffee shop!”. She has been fighting Malaria so it’s only understandable as this disease just drains all the energy out of you.
We finally find a coffee shop opened (it’s Sunday) and it lives is up to our expectations. Absolutely the best coffee I have had in a long time. Smooth and strong at the same time (no this is not a romance novel). We are content.
In the evening we have a great Indian meal. There is a large Indian community in Tanzania and Moshi has many Indian eateries.
Once we are back in our hotel room, we enjoy catching up on some world news on the BBC.
Of course we are also very excited as Moshi is known for its great coffee shops and we are dying for a true cup of locally grown Arabica.
On the way I can tell we are arriving in a much wealthier part of Tanzania as the land is cultivated and the houses look in better condition.
We arrive in Moshi at the bus station, immediately swarmed by flycatchers. That is the term used to describe the safari touts that try to sell you packages as Moshi is the departure place for Kilimanjaro climbers and only 1 hour away from Arusha, the departure place for the best safaris in Tanzania including the Serengeti. What they do is they try to spark a conversation, ask you where you are from, what is your name, etc… but there are 10 of them almost stopping you from getting to where you are going so it takes a good bit of patience and cultural etiquette not to be rude as we would be if this happened in our home countries. Heather is exhausted so I take on the role of “Let’s get to the hotel and the coffee shop!”. She has been fighting Malaria so it’s only understandable as this disease just drains all the energy out of you.
We finally find a coffee shop opened (it’s Sunday) and it lives is up to our expectations. Absolutely the best coffee I have had in a long time. Smooth and strong at the same time (no this is not a romance novel). We are content.
In the evening we have a great Indian meal. There is a large Indian community in Tanzania and Moshi has many Indian eateries.
Once we are back in our hotel room, we enjoy catching up on some world news on the BBC.
Friday April 25th 2008: From Funga Funga to Mvomero and then off to Dar Es Salaam
This morning I wait for the truck to come back from Funga Funga to pick up Amos, Heather and the other boy whose name I don’t know. When the truck arrives, only Amos and Heather are in there. I find out that the other boy wishes to stay in Funga Funga as it is close to town. He likes to beg and go out for drinks. Mvomero is in the countryside, so there is not much nightlife, and the Amani centre is a religious organization so there are strict rules to abide if he moves there.
So, with Heather, Amos, Mama Bakhita and myself in the pick up truck, a new mattress and equipment in the back, we head out to Mvomero. 40 minutes later we arrive. As usual, we get a very warm greeting. We show Amos his new room. He smiles but you can tell he feels a bit shy and shell shocked as this is a completely different environment… in a good way. Mvomero is a beautiful and peaceful place. The Amani property is surrounded by mountains. There is a garden and a little further away fields. I really love it there. As Heather and I approach our departure to take a bus to Dar Es Salaam, Amos has already struck up a conversation with one of the local able youths who works at Mvomero. So we leave, curious about how he will adapt but also excited about our journey up North via Dar Es Salaam.
As usual, the Dalla Dalla ride to the bus station is scary. 2 of them (ours included) are racing and taking over each other with very little space.
We get on the bus to Dar Es Salaam and arrive at night only to be greeted by aggressive taxi drivers who grab our bags. My first impression of Dar as we drive to the WMCA is that it is a grim city and for the first time since my arrival in Tanzania, I feel a real assault to my senses and actually quite unsafe. I realize I am very happy now to have a travel companion. Heather is 24 and from Canada where she works as a nurse. She has a good sense of humor and so far we have had a good laugh and have bonded over our love of coffee!
We arrive at the YMCA and take the cheapest room, a whopping 7 dollars a night. The room is basically a dirty dark closet and we laugh as we have also just had a harrowing cab ride to get there.
We please ourselves by having a nice dinner at a Thai restaurant overlooking the grim harbor. I order a Thai beef salad and chew on the spiciest pepper I have ever had. My nostrils don’t quite recover all through dinner but it still feels nice to relax.
So, with Heather, Amos, Mama Bakhita and myself in the pick up truck, a new mattress and equipment in the back, we head out to Mvomero. 40 minutes later we arrive. As usual, we get a very warm greeting. We show Amos his new room. He smiles but you can tell he feels a bit shy and shell shocked as this is a completely different environment… in a good way. Mvomero is a beautiful and peaceful place. The Amani property is surrounded by mountains. There is a garden and a little further away fields. I really love it there. As Heather and I approach our departure to take a bus to Dar Es Salaam, Amos has already struck up a conversation with one of the local able youths who works at Mvomero. So we leave, curious about how he will adapt but also excited about our journey up North via Dar Es Salaam.
As usual, the Dalla Dalla ride to the bus station is scary. 2 of them (ours included) are racing and taking over each other with very little space.
We get on the bus to Dar Es Salaam and arrive at night only to be greeted by aggressive taxi drivers who grab our bags. My first impression of Dar as we drive to the WMCA is that it is a grim city and for the first time since my arrival in Tanzania, I feel a real assault to my senses and actually quite unsafe. I realize I am very happy now to have a travel companion. Heather is 24 and from Canada where she works as a nurse. She has a good sense of humor and so far we have had a good laugh and have bonded over our love of coffee!
We arrive at the YMCA and take the cheapest room, a whopping 7 dollars a night. The room is basically a dirty dark closet and we laugh as we have also just had a harrowing cab ride to get there.
We please ourselves by having a nice dinner at a Thai restaurant overlooking the grim harbor. I order a Thai beef salad and chew on the spiciest pepper I have ever had. My nostrils don’t quite recover all through dinner but it still feels nice to relax.
Wednesday April 23rd and Thursday 24th 2008: Fundraising push
I spend most of these 2 days working with Mama Bakhita on various things including getting fundraising information from the US and French embassies. I also write several emails to members of a conference in Bangkok, which Mama Bakhita attended a year ago. We contact them in hopes they will be able to refer us to charity organizations.
This is a 2-day push before I leave for 1 week up north on a travel break. But I still haven’t worked on any sewing as it seems I am more needed with secretarial duties and fundraising work.
This is a 2-day push before I leave for 1 week up north on a travel break. But I still haven’t worked on any sewing as it seems I am more needed with secretarial duties and fundraising work.
Tuesday April 22nd 2008: Visit to the boys in Funga Funga
As promised to Dr Ken and Dr Anne, Heather and I go to visit the 2 boys they are sponsoring and wish to remove from Funga Funga. They warned us that is was quite a horrid place. It’s a retirement home run by the government. In deed, when we arrive there, we realize it is shockingly dirty and smells like neglect. The main hallway is long and dark. You can see into bedrooms where the walls are smeared with stains. The whole place smells like urine. Most of the residents are elderly and look sick and malnourished. The 2 boys are young and were placed there I guess because no one else would take them.
We only met with Amos as the other boy is in town, most likely begging. Heather checks on him and his urine bag that hasn’t been changed in too long. I ask him questions about his life story. He is extremely friendly despite the tragic life he has had so far and I feel struck by the genuine positivism that shines in his eyes.
Amos is 23 years old. He has been paralyzed since 2005 after a car accident in the hills of Morogoro when his truck rolled over in a ditch. His parents died 2 years prior so he is an orphan but does have a distant family member who check on him. He comes from Kiroka and doesn’t have secondary education but loves to draw, study and write.
On the way out, we meet an old man in his late eighties who fought for England in Kenya.
After the visit, we go to get new urine bags for Amos for his arrival at Mvomero at the end of the week.
We only met with Amos as the other boy is in town, most likely begging. Heather checks on him and his urine bag that hasn’t been changed in too long. I ask him questions about his life story. He is extremely friendly despite the tragic life he has had so far and I feel struck by the genuine positivism that shines in his eyes.
Amos is 23 years old. He has been paralyzed since 2005 after a car accident in the hills of Morogoro when his truck rolled over in a ditch. His parents died 2 years prior so he is an orphan but does have a distant family member who check on him. He comes from Kiroka and doesn’t have secondary education but loves to draw, study and write.
On the way out, we meet an old man in his late eighties who fought for England in Kenya.
After the visit, we go to get new urine bags for Amos for his arrival at Mvomero at the end of the week.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Thursday April 24th 2008: Leaving for Northern Tanzania via Dar Es Salaam for 1 week
Tomorrow I am going to Moshi in Northern Tanzania via Dar Es Salam. It is the region known for its coffee growing, specifically Arabica. Mom I will get you the best coffee!!!
It is also has a big Masai population and famous natural sites like the Ngorongoro crater (8th wonder of the world), Tarangire Park and further away the Serengeti. Moshi sits at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro so I am very excited to go there. I will be traveling with another volunteer called Heather.
I will update the blog when I come back. Hint Hint... small packages and letters are welcome ;) if you want to keep in touch the old way, or even slip some chocolate.... The address is Amani centre PO Box 579 Morogoro Tanzania
I hope you are well!!! Lots of love
It is also has a big Masai population and famous natural sites like the Ngorongoro crater (8th wonder of the world), Tarangire Park and further away the Serengeti. Moshi sits at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro so I am very excited to go there. I will be traveling with another volunteer called Heather.
I will update the blog when I come back. Hint Hint... small packages and letters are welcome ;) if you want to keep in touch the old way, or even slip some chocolate.... The address is Amani centre PO Box 579 Morogoro Tanzania
I hope you are well!!! Lots of love
Monday April 20th 2008: My first stomach bug since arrival
Well I guess it was bound to happen as it does to most travelers in third world countries. This morning I got since from some water I drank. It was supposed to have been heated but I am not sure it was now. Anyway, have spent most of the day with an upset stomach and feeling exhausted. Cipro to the rescue! Hopefully tomorrow will be better. It’s a bummer though as I really wanted to get out today as I am alone. I wanted to see this spot called the rock garden but will try to go during the week.
In the evening Dr Ken and Dr Anne came for their final visit to Mama Bakhita. They specifically told us to take care of 2 disabled boys they have decided to sponsor and move from a horrible
facility where they are staying. They were moved to tears. So we should be moving them next week to Mvomero.
In the evening Dr Ken and Dr Anne came for their final visit to Mama Bakhita. They specifically told us to take care of 2 disabled boys they have decided to sponsor and move from a horrible
facility where they are staying. They were moved to tears. So we should be moving them next week to Mvomero.
Saturday April 19th 2008: Buying food at the market for the Amani center
I go to the market with Gladness, one of the girls living at the center. She is 20 years old and has been living there for 4 years. She is very dedicated and an incredible singer.
The market is very busy with people of all faiths and colors. I even see a Chinese lady with a very little baby, some Koreans and Japanese and some Muzungus (white people). We go there to buy in large quantities. We walk around and I am thoroughly enjoying all the food stands as I try not to walk deep into the mud like I did last time when I was at the same intersection. It rained heavily today and I am wearing only flip-flops, as almost everyone here does. We get sugar, cooking oil and wheat flour from the first shop. They are very friendly and offer me a seat “ Karibu kiti”. Then we walk deeper into the market and stop at a stand held by a Muslim black man and his small daughter. Gladness tries to negociate the price down for 25 kilos of rice (2 big bags) as the prices have gone up. We end up going to another stand and get the price we want. Then 2 boys who have been standing by us help us carry the bags. When we arrive at our final destination, they won’t leave the bags unless we pay for carrying them. We argue for maybe 20 minutes and end up giving in as they just won’t leave us alone and I can vaguely understand that they have been insulting me as hear “Muzungu” and can tell from the expression on their faces. Oh well! Next time I will just give them a bit straight away so we can just get rid of them. Still learning how different it is here.
We go back and I take a well needed shower after all the sweating at the market! I also do some reading as I plan on going traveling up north next week for the first time. I have never trekked alone before so I am a little nervous but very intent on doing it. There is a school break so it’s the perfect time for me to go.
At 4pm Dr Ken and Dr Anne arrive at the Amani center for a meeting with Mama Bakhita and I attend as the note taker. After that I have a quick dinner as they are still here but I don’t want to not get food as it is first come first serve here.
At night, I end up spending too much time on the internet fixing mail and bill problems that come up last minute and I go to bed frustrated that I spent so much time on the computer instead of going to evening assembly. The nice thing was though that I got to chat on skype messenger for a while with Ken. I love Skype!!
The market is very busy with people of all faiths and colors. I even see a Chinese lady with a very little baby, some Koreans and Japanese and some Muzungus (white people). We go there to buy in large quantities. We walk around and I am thoroughly enjoying all the food stands as I try not to walk deep into the mud like I did last time when I was at the same intersection. It rained heavily today and I am wearing only flip-flops, as almost everyone here does. We get sugar, cooking oil and wheat flour from the first shop. They are very friendly and offer me a seat “ Karibu kiti”. Then we walk deeper into the market and stop at a stand held by a Muslim black man and his small daughter. Gladness tries to negociate the price down for 25 kilos of rice (2 big bags) as the prices have gone up. We end up going to another stand and get the price we want. Then 2 boys who have been standing by us help us carry the bags. When we arrive at our final destination, they won’t leave the bags unless we pay for carrying them. We argue for maybe 20 minutes and end up giving in as they just won’t leave us alone and I can vaguely understand that they have been insulting me as hear “Muzungu” and can tell from the expression on their faces. Oh well! Next time I will just give them a bit straight away so we can just get rid of them. Still learning how different it is here.
We go back and I take a well needed shower after all the sweating at the market! I also do some reading as I plan on going traveling up north next week for the first time. I have never trekked alone before so I am a little nervous but very intent on doing it. There is a school break so it’s the perfect time for me to go.
At 4pm Dr Ken and Dr Anne arrive at the Amani center for a meeting with Mama Bakhita and I attend as the note taker. After that I have a quick dinner as they are still here but I don’t want to not get food as it is first come first serve here.
At night, I end up spending too much time on the internet fixing mail and bill problems that come up last minute and I go to bed frustrated that I spent so much time on the computer instead of going to evening assembly. The nice thing was though that I got to chat on skype messenger for a while with Ken. I love Skype!!
Thursday 17th and Friday April 18th 2008: The girls at the center and the kitchen
I am settling into my life here although I have felt lonely at times, particularly missing Ken. But other than that, I am really enjoying hanging out with the youth that lives at the center.
There are about 20 girls ages 15 to 21 who are living and working here in exchange for secondary school tuition. They were quite shy at first but are opening up. Mainly they were afraid of using their limited English. Mama Bakhita has insisted I speak English with them instead of Swahili so I am afraid I am not making very much progress with my Swahili but they need my English more than I need Swahili so I will be patient. Just by sitting around them and listening I am picking words up, and also feeling more involved with the daily life at the center.
Whenever I don’t have anything to do, I find the girls and ask them if they need help or just hang out with them. They are teens so there is much giggling, singing and occasionally dancing. They are usually working so on Friday night, I join them in the kitchen, which is in the back of the building and help them cook. I am quite excited as I hope to be able to duplicate their delicious dishes when I get back. One of them is made of peas, tomato and coconut juice. I didn’t realize it had coconut. They actually cut it fresh and very fine, then pour water over it to humidify it. They then proceed to squeeze the juice out of it by hand.
The kitchen is basically a stone hut and it’s hot in there. It’s the hub of the building as a kitchen always is the center of activity wherever you go… As I step into the back of the building, most of the kids are hanging around there, as well as the dog and her 1 week old puppies who have found the warmest place. They use wood and coal to cook everything and sit by the dishes. They grind the grain themselves. I watch, help stir the food in the pot, and bring the dishes over once they are cooked. They keep saying I am the chief cook which is not at all true as I am more their student right now. We talk about different things like our phones, our hair and such… I realize how much time and effort is put into cooking our meals and it makes me even more appreciative of what I have been eating, especially knowing there is a food shortage.
On Friday night, the other volunteers and I decide to go to a show in town called: Mr and Ms Talent 2008. We think it’s a talent show but realize it’s a beauty pageant. We get there early so we watch them rehearse while we have drinks and giggles of our own. When the show starts, every category is quite long as there are 15 contestants. At first they do a choreography which is quite bad and makes me wish the Amani girls entered this show… Then they talk about their goal in life. A lot of them talk about eradicating aids, one talks about women’s rights, the other about orphans. They all bring up serious topics and openly speak about the state of their country in front of the crowd. The night goes and people are getting more and more fired up. Especially when there is a raffle. Some are dancing. We eventually leave around 1 am. Everything goes at a very mellow pace here and the show will keep going on until 2 or 3 and we all have a very early day tomorrow. On our way back, the cab takes the back bumpy roads that a 4 weel drive should take so it is quite an experience as the car slides here and there close to trees. But the girls are singing in the car and don’t seem to notice. I sit in the front with Heather and we just laugh.
The rest of the volunteers are going to Dar Es Salaam tomorrow morning early but I am staying at the center and am going to the market.
There are about 20 girls ages 15 to 21 who are living and working here in exchange for secondary school tuition. They were quite shy at first but are opening up. Mainly they were afraid of using their limited English. Mama Bakhita has insisted I speak English with them instead of Swahili so I am afraid I am not making very much progress with my Swahili but they need my English more than I need Swahili so I will be patient. Just by sitting around them and listening I am picking words up, and also feeling more involved with the daily life at the center.
Whenever I don’t have anything to do, I find the girls and ask them if they need help or just hang out with them. They are teens so there is much giggling, singing and occasionally dancing. They are usually working so on Friday night, I join them in the kitchen, which is in the back of the building and help them cook. I am quite excited as I hope to be able to duplicate their delicious dishes when I get back. One of them is made of peas, tomato and coconut juice. I didn’t realize it had coconut. They actually cut it fresh and very fine, then pour water over it to humidify it. They then proceed to squeeze the juice out of it by hand.
The kitchen is basically a stone hut and it’s hot in there. It’s the hub of the building as a kitchen always is the center of activity wherever you go… As I step into the back of the building, most of the kids are hanging around there, as well as the dog and her 1 week old puppies who have found the warmest place. They use wood and coal to cook everything and sit by the dishes. They grind the grain themselves. I watch, help stir the food in the pot, and bring the dishes over once they are cooked. They keep saying I am the chief cook which is not at all true as I am more their student right now. We talk about different things like our phones, our hair and such… I realize how much time and effort is put into cooking our meals and it makes me even more appreciative of what I have been eating, especially knowing there is a food shortage.
On Friday night, the other volunteers and I decide to go to a show in town called: Mr and Ms Talent 2008. We think it’s a talent show but realize it’s a beauty pageant. We get there early so we watch them rehearse while we have drinks and giggles of our own. When the show starts, every category is quite long as there are 15 contestants. At first they do a choreography which is quite bad and makes me wish the Amani girls entered this show… Then they talk about their goal in life. A lot of them talk about eradicating aids, one talks about women’s rights, the other about orphans. They all bring up serious topics and openly speak about the state of their country in front of the crowd. The night goes and people are getting more and more fired up. Especially when there is a raffle. Some are dancing. We eventually leave around 1 am. Everything goes at a very mellow pace here and the show will keep going on until 2 or 3 and we all have a very early day tomorrow. On our way back, the cab takes the back bumpy roads that a 4 weel drive should take so it is quite an experience as the car slides here and there close to trees. But the girls are singing in the car and don’t seem to notice. I sit in the front with Heather and we just laugh.
The rest of the volunteers are going to Dar Es Salaam tomorrow morning early but I am staying at the center and am going to the market.
Wednesday April 16th, 2008: Busy day
Today, after day care, I spend most of the day working with Mama Bakhita on emails and reading a directory of charitable organizations in the US that we should be contacted. In the afternoon, I have my last Swahili lesson and hope to practice everything when I go to the market this weekend. The center is seriously running out of food and in need of help for the next month so I am using the money Ken’s parents and Julie have donated to purchase flour, wheat, coal, etc… that should last for the month. Thank you again!
It’s sad that the Amani centre is struggling. Their main donor pulled out several months ago and ever since it has been a struggle and a constant effort to find new partners.
I have also been working on correspondence with a school of students from Glasgow who are coming to visit in June to work on renovating the building here and also do activities with the children. They’d like to sell baby clothes made out of local fabric back in the UK so I will start working on something simple. Tobias and Ernesta are available on weekends so I need to think of what to do with them before hand.
Mama Bakhita had a computer donated to her so I also installed the software on that.
And last but not least, I also managed to post my diary in the evening and it was nice to see comments and get emails. Please give your feedback!! It’s great to hear from friends as I am thinking of you all!
I am also very happy to hear some of you would like to donate. The Amani center and the local youth definitely could use help. To give you an idea, it costs $250/ year to pay for secondary school here but most families can’t afford that as Tanzania is the 5th poorest country in the world. This is a big topic so I will write more in detail about this later.
Had trouble falling asleep but at least the dogs weren’t fighting as much as the night before I wished I had a bb gun with me. Sorry dog lovers, it was just a temporary lapse of sanity.
It’s sad that the Amani centre is struggling. Their main donor pulled out several months ago and ever since it has been a struggle and a constant effort to find new partners.
I have also been working on correspondence with a school of students from Glasgow who are coming to visit in June to work on renovating the building here and also do activities with the children. They’d like to sell baby clothes made out of local fabric back in the UK so I will start working on something simple. Tobias and Ernesta are available on weekends so I need to think of what to do with them before hand.
Mama Bakhita had a computer donated to her so I also installed the software on that.
And last but not least, I also managed to post my diary in the evening and it was nice to see comments and get emails. Please give your feedback!! It’s great to hear from friends as I am thinking of you all!
I am also very happy to hear some of you would like to donate. The Amani center and the local youth definitely could use help. To give you an idea, it costs $250/ year to pay for secondary school here but most families can’t afford that as Tanzania is the 5th poorest country in the world. This is a big topic so I will write more in detail about this later.
Had trouble falling asleep but at least the dogs weren’t fighting as much as the night before I wished I had a bb gun with me. Sorry dog lovers, it was just a temporary lapse of sanity.
Sunday April 13th 2008 part 2: Alice’s goodbye ceremony
In the evening, the Amani center holds a celebration for Alice. She has been at the center for 7 months and is going back to England on Tuesday. She has made a great contribution as she is a trained physiotherapist and has been very active with the mobile clinics, going to villages, as well as being very generous. She has also helped a lot with fundraising and getting equipment to the local disabled youth like wheelchairs and tricycles. So this evening is in her honor. The whole 7 months she lived at the center so all the secondary school girls who live/ work there in exchange for education, as well as the disabled children, have grown very attached to her.
Tonight there is a lot of singing and crying. The songs have been customized for Alice. One of them says ” this is the time to say goodbye”. I have only been here for a few days but I feel very moved.
One of the most exciting things about the evening is we get to see the girls perform traditional dances. The music and their rhythm is just amazing. The Amani center has also brought in a comedy/dance group to entertain and make everyone laugh.
Then we have one huge delicious dinner made of the local ingredients: beans, meat cooked in a ragout, rice, potatoes, cooked bananas. Our stomachs are in heaven and also quite full….
After the official ceremony, we all break out in dance and get to have beer which I have missed!! The girls gather drums and dance around. I learn a few steps which I am sure I will forget but hope to use again while I am here.
It’s truly been an amazing evening and I took some videos for posterity.
Tonight there is a lot of singing and crying. The songs have been customized for Alice. One of them says ” this is the time to say goodbye”. I have only been here for a few days but I feel very moved.
One of the most exciting things about the evening is we get to see the girls perform traditional dances. The music and their rhythm is just amazing. The Amani center has also brought in a comedy/dance group to entertain and make everyone laugh.
Then we have one huge delicious dinner made of the local ingredients: beans, meat cooked in a ragout, rice, potatoes, cooked bananas. Our stomachs are in heaven and also quite full….
After the official ceremony, we all break out in dance and get to have beer which I have missed!! The girls gather drums and dance around. I learn a few steps which I am sure I will forget but hope to use again while I am here.
It’s truly been an amazing evening and I took some videos for posterity.
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Tuesday April 15th 2008: Arts and crafts
Today was a great day. After day care, I went to see Mama Bakhita but she didn’t need me so I ended up working in the sewing room. I organized the supplies, assessed what needs to be purchased, mainly fabric. They actually have quite a lot of thread. I worked with Tobias, who aside from sewing, has also been helping with physiotherapy. He is trying to train Ernesta, one of the girls living at the center. There is a language barrier but we end up understanding each other. The youth has been making dish mats. Earring, necklaces so it can be sold and I hope to help with that.
Monday April 14th 2008:
Spent the day typing emails for Mama Bakhita and trying to download my pictures on my blog without success.
I had my first Swahili lesson which Alice kindly set up for me before leaving.
Today somehow was frustrating. It’s the first day where I feel off balance here and am having trouble adjust. I don’t even want to write about it as I was generally in a really bad mood today so it’s best to sleep on it.
I had my first Swahili lesson which Alice kindly set up for me before leaving.
Today somehow was frustrating. It’s the first day where I feel off balance here and am having trouble adjust. I don’t even want to write about it as I was generally in a really bad mood today so it’s best to sleep on it.
Sunday April 13th 2008: Back in Morogoro and the experience at Saba Saba market
We leave Mvomero and catch the 6:30 bus back to Morogoro. It is a very nice Dalla Dalla. I sit next to a woman and her daughter. Bags and boxes appear and disappear around me as passengers board and leave. The driver’s assistant chats me up and rubs my fake wedding ring. Also admires my hiking boots and knocks on them like they are wood and keeps saying knuckles and showing me his hands! I laugh as I don’t understand but I am trying to engage anyway. The little girl next to me seams very happy about where she is going. She looks like she is about 8 but here you never know as people are so short and younger looking. I can’t sleep as I am too stimulated by watching the people and the road. A Masai woman gets on the bus and looks very distinguished. She is wearing a beautiful white beaded necklace
2 and ½ hours later we get to Morogoro and switch to a regular run down Dalla Dalla to get back to the Amani center. We decide to relax until 12pm when we take a taxi back to Morogoro to go to Saba Saba, this crazy street market where you can find just about everything at the risk of getting mugged. I get 2 tangas. They are traditional fabric women use to wrap around their bodies in many different ways. Eventually a man does try to steel from my pocket and I grab his arm yelling no and he stops. If you yell, the thieves stop as they risk being stoned if caught by the police.
When we get back to where the buses are, the road is filled with mud deep in certain parts. Michael and I step into a deep patch and actually can’t get our flip-flops out. When I finally get my feet out, a man kindly starts to clean them.
2 and ½ hours later we get to Morogoro and switch to a regular run down Dalla Dalla to get back to the Amani center. We decide to relax until 12pm when we take a taxi back to Morogoro to go to Saba Saba, this crazy street market where you can find just about everything at the risk of getting mugged. I get 2 tangas. They are traditional fabric women use to wrap around their bodies in many different ways. Eventually a man does try to steel from my pocket and I grab his arm yelling no and he stops. If you yell, the thieves stop as they risk being stoned if caught by the police.
When we get back to where the buses are, the road is filled with mud deep in certain parts. Michael and I step into a deep patch and actually can’t get our flip-flops out. When I finally get my feet out, a man kindly starts to clean them.
Saturday April 12th 2008: Sun in Mvomero
Today is my second day in Mvomero. We get up early so we can help farming but we cannot do so because there are now thorns in the ground due to the heavy rains. So we end up walking into town before lunch to simply get batteries and try to locate Mama Bakhita, Dr Ken and Dr Anne for lunch. As usual, people say hello, especially children who want to try out their English. We end up not finding our lunch party and just spending time at the local café called Go and return. It is almost like a cement hut with a t.v. where people gather at night. We watch a rap show with videos of Swahili rap and Taabar, the local music.
At night, we have songs and dance as it is Alice’s last time in Mvomero so it is a special occasion. We all gather in the dining area with just a lamp torch. The teens sing for Alice, one of them raps and reminds me of my brother Joseph. The evening is filled with joy and I am still amazed at the positive and friendly attitude people have here.
At night, we have songs and dance as it is Alice’s last time in Mvomero so it is a special occasion. We all gather in the dining area with just a lamp torch. The teens sing for Alice, one of them raps and reminds me of my brother Joseph. The evening is filled with joy and I am still amazed at the positive and friendly attitude people have here.
Friday April 11th 2008: The morning assembly and leaving for Mvomero
At morning assembly, Mama Bakhita shared with us that today is the anniversary of her son’s death. His name was Eric and he died suddenly 4 years ago in his thirties. Bakhita cried and it was very moving.
Afterwards, I finish typing up the grant request. Then we head out to Mvomero, the farm owned by Amani. It is 40km away, about an hour drive on the dirt roads here that are filled with massive holes and puddles. The rain has been very heavy. Alice, Rachel and myself get on the back of the pick up truck owned by Amani. It’s rainy and windy and we are sort of getting slapped by the elements but it is so much fun to be on the back of the truck. Many people wave and say hello. We drive by so many Masai men as we are entering a more Masai populated area but I cannot take picture due to the speed and I have to hold on to the rail! The road is so bumpy I don’t want to fall off. We also drive by a zebra and ostrich farm. Mountains in the nearby distance surround us, the clouds are in and out but the light has an amazing quality here. I feel like I haven’t breathed such fresh air in a long time.
The man at the back of the truck is called Nalenti. He is mentally handicapped but very physically able and helps around the centre. Her laughs and talks a lot and can just fill a room with joy. He is quite incredible actually.
When we arrive, the center is much smaller than in Chamwino Morogoro. It is surrounded by fields, a pig and chicken farm. There isn’t electricity or running water but a well with a pump right outside. The cooking is done outside in a hut. Most of the kids who live here are in their teens and help at the farm. There is one very little girl who is autistic. When she gets excited which is quite often, she shouts and sometimes hits. She is incontinent and a rape victim. She is about 8 years old and very pretty.
I go sign the guest book of course. I get a tour of the rest of the facilities where seminars and workshops are held. They are building benches for the classrooms and I also get to see the arts and crafts work. Beautiful wooden earrings are drying. There are also hand made cards being made by a local artist who does everything with dried banana leaves. Then we hang out with the youth.
For dinner we are invited to the church to have dinner with the priest. We drive there in the back of the truck again into the night which again is so much fun. I feel like I am 15 again. Dr Ken and Dr Anne have joined us so it’s more of a formal dinner.
Later we come back to the residence. Rachel, Alice and I are sharing a room.
Afterwards, I finish typing up the grant request. Then we head out to Mvomero, the farm owned by Amani. It is 40km away, about an hour drive on the dirt roads here that are filled with massive holes and puddles. The rain has been very heavy. Alice, Rachel and myself get on the back of the pick up truck owned by Amani. It’s rainy and windy and we are sort of getting slapped by the elements but it is so much fun to be on the back of the truck. Many people wave and say hello. We drive by so many Masai men as we are entering a more Masai populated area but I cannot take picture due to the speed and I have to hold on to the rail! The road is so bumpy I don’t want to fall off. We also drive by a zebra and ostrich farm. Mountains in the nearby distance surround us, the clouds are in and out but the light has an amazing quality here. I feel like I haven’t breathed such fresh air in a long time.
The man at the back of the truck is called Nalenti. He is mentally handicapped but very physically able and helps around the centre. Her laughs and talks a lot and can just fill a room with joy. He is quite incredible actually.
When we arrive, the center is much smaller than in Chamwino Morogoro. It is surrounded by fields, a pig and chicken farm. There isn’t electricity or running water but a well with a pump right outside. The cooking is done outside in a hut. Most of the kids who live here are in their teens and help at the farm. There is one very little girl who is autistic. When she gets excited which is quite often, she shouts and sometimes hits. She is incontinent and a rape victim. She is about 8 years old and very pretty.
I go sign the guest book of course. I get a tour of the rest of the facilities where seminars and workshops are held. They are building benches for the classrooms and I also get to see the arts and crafts work. Beautiful wooden earrings are drying. There are also hand made cards being made by a local artist who does everything with dried banana leaves. Then we hang out with the youth.
For dinner we are invited to the church to have dinner with the priest. We drive there in the back of the truck again into the night which again is so much fun. I feel like I am 15 again. Dr Ken and Dr Anne have joined us so it’s more of a formal dinner.
Later we come back to the residence. Rachel, Alice and I are sharing a room.
Thursday April 10th 2008: Working with Mama Bakhita, the founder of the Amani center
I have been helping Mama Bakhita with typing up a grant request to the Swiss women’s catholic league. If the Amani center gets it, they will be granted 10 000 US$ Alice, the main volunteer who has been at the center for 7 months is leaving next week so I am taking over her secretarial duties. I am familiarizing myself with the whole process. Hopefully I can help raise money soon as that is one of my missions here. I help correct the English in the proposal draft and just make it sound nice. I also double check the budget proposal which turns out to be very helpful as I get to see how much things cost to run the Amani center and it’s different activities. I find out they have been doing seminars to train mothers of disabled children on how to care for them and they are very involved in mobile clinics. Their fieldwork is really trying to make a difference in the community where disabled children and their mothers are usually shunned.
In the evening I attend the assembly, which consists of prayers and singing. I respect the faith that is held here but it’s nice, as they are not trying to convert me either. I mainly really enjoy the singing and the communal aspect of their gathering.
In the evening I attend the assembly, which consists of prayers and singing. I respect the faith that is held here but it’s nice, as they are not trying to convert me either. I mainly really enjoy the singing and the communal aspect of their gathering.
Wednesday April 9th 2008: Day care, Masai man, orphanage visit and the Dalla Dalla bus
I wake up in the middle of the night to he sound of dogs howling. Even then, I feel very rested and happy to start my first day in Tanzania.
After breakfast we have day care with the children. They start the day by singing a Swahili song. Then they brush their teeth. Then they all run to the main hall where the teachers serve Chai tea and we all hang out and talk, dance. Apparently it varies every day. I have a nice time with a young boy named Abel who I later find out has epilepsy and was abandoned by his family. He looks like he is maybe 10 but he is actually 18. I am shocked when I find out his age. He speaks quite good English. We spend our time dancing to Bob Marley today and doing dance games like Musical chairs. One of the teens dances really well. His name is Jaji. We laugh because I am Gigi and he is Jaji: Gigi-Jaji… hahaha…
Then one of the volunteers, Rachel, asks me to come to the Mgologo orphanage with her. Before that, we have a few errands to run into town. We take the local bus called the Dalla Dalla and it is quite an experience. It’s basically a mini van equipped with 4 rows of seats and packed with people. It’s very communal and probably the best transportation experience I have had so far in my life. We have lunch when we get into Morogoro center, which consists of an omelet with fries inside. I know it sounds heavy but it’s basically a tortilla. The food is quite heavy here and the volunteers have all said they gained weight during their stay. So we will see how I look in 3 months!! At the lunch table, Rachel is scrolling through her camera pictures and a Masai man decides to join us and stares at the pictures with curiosity. I think he was worried at first that we were going to take a picture of him as they really dislike that. Not just the Masai actually, everyone except kids. You have to ask for permission or actually give money sometimes to take a photograph, which I can sort of understand depending on the situation. Anyway, back to the Masai man: he is extremely tall and impressive and carries a large knife attached to his belt. He is draped in the most amazing patterned fabric. I really enjoyed meeting a Masai for the 1st time.
Then we head for the orphanage, in a dalla dalla again. When we are dropped off, the path that leads to the building is very beautiful and lined with gigantic graceful trees, which I have only seen here. The orphanage is run by nuns and they have their hands full. We sign the guest book again. The children I see are between the ages of a few months old to around 8 years old. The infrastructure looks poor but functional. Although the poverty in the streets hasn’t shocked me so far, I am taken aback by the state of the building. But apparently this is much better than the state run orphanages. We spend time with the children entertaining them. They are desperate for attention and all want to be held. Some are fighting because of it. Then we go to the room where the 2 year olds are in large cots. The children seem well taken care of and are very lively. To put it plain and simple, they are all very cute and we seem to amuse them. I can see how you would get attached but I remind myself I will not make a difference in 1 visit…. I spend more time with a girl and a boy who just love to clap in my hands. In fact, the little boy laughs so hard each time that it feels like he is going to break a rib! The girl is shyer but you can see a smile forming on her face and that she is filled with curiosity. Then we go to the room where the toddlers sleep. There is actually a set of triplets and twins. I am amazed that the triplets survived but unfortunately their mother hasn’t. One of the twins looks like something is wrong with her. Then we help one of the helpers who work at the orphanage fold all the laundry. I have never seen a pile like that. I think she is really happy we came by, as I can’t imagine how long it would have taken her to fold the clothes. I guess there are about 30 children so it really adds up. Then it is time to leave so we can make it back before dark. But we will come back weekly.
Thank god Rachel is with me, as I cannot speak a word of Swahili. We get back on the Dalla dalla and this time it is a lot of fun. Everyone is talking and laughing like it’s a big social gathering inside the van. The lady across from me translates what is being said and apparently, one of the men has asked how much it would cost to spend the rest of his life with me. I laugh and wave my wedding finger. I have been wearing a ring as it is important here for a white woman traveling alone. When I show my hand, everyone starts laughing and it causes me to laugh and turn red at the same time.
When we get back I am so exhausted. We have dinner. The cooking is really good at the Amani center. I try Ugali for the first time, which is a rice paste you roll in your hands and dip into your food.
I feel happy with the simpler life here. I don’t even have electricity in my room but have had a very exciting day. I love it here and feel I was always meant to come to Africa.
After breakfast we have day care with the children. They start the day by singing a Swahili song. Then they brush their teeth. Then they all run to the main hall where the teachers serve Chai tea and we all hang out and talk, dance. Apparently it varies every day. I have a nice time with a young boy named Abel who I later find out has epilepsy and was abandoned by his family. He looks like he is maybe 10 but he is actually 18. I am shocked when I find out his age. He speaks quite good English. We spend our time dancing to Bob Marley today and doing dance games like Musical chairs. One of the teens dances really well. His name is Jaji. We laugh because I am Gigi and he is Jaji: Gigi-Jaji… hahaha…
Then one of the volunteers, Rachel, asks me to come to the Mgologo orphanage with her. Before that, we have a few errands to run into town. We take the local bus called the Dalla Dalla and it is quite an experience. It’s basically a mini van equipped with 4 rows of seats and packed with people. It’s very communal and probably the best transportation experience I have had so far in my life. We have lunch when we get into Morogoro center, which consists of an omelet with fries inside. I know it sounds heavy but it’s basically a tortilla. The food is quite heavy here and the volunteers have all said they gained weight during their stay. So we will see how I look in 3 months!! At the lunch table, Rachel is scrolling through her camera pictures and a Masai man decides to join us and stares at the pictures with curiosity. I think he was worried at first that we were going to take a picture of him as they really dislike that. Not just the Masai actually, everyone except kids. You have to ask for permission or actually give money sometimes to take a photograph, which I can sort of understand depending on the situation. Anyway, back to the Masai man: he is extremely tall and impressive and carries a large knife attached to his belt. He is draped in the most amazing patterned fabric. I really enjoyed meeting a Masai for the 1st time.
Then we head for the orphanage, in a dalla dalla again. When we are dropped off, the path that leads to the building is very beautiful and lined with gigantic graceful trees, which I have only seen here. The orphanage is run by nuns and they have their hands full. We sign the guest book again. The children I see are between the ages of a few months old to around 8 years old. The infrastructure looks poor but functional. Although the poverty in the streets hasn’t shocked me so far, I am taken aback by the state of the building. But apparently this is much better than the state run orphanages. We spend time with the children entertaining them. They are desperate for attention and all want to be held. Some are fighting because of it. Then we go to the room where the 2 year olds are in large cots. The children seem well taken care of and are very lively. To put it plain and simple, they are all very cute and we seem to amuse them. I can see how you would get attached but I remind myself I will not make a difference in 1 visit…. I spend more time with a girl and a boy who just love to clap in my hands. In fact, the little boy laughs so hard each time that it feels like he is going to break a rib! The girl is shyer but you can see a smile forming on her face and that she is filled with curiosity. Then we go to the room where the toddlers sleep. There is actually a set of triplets and twins. I am amazed that the triplets survived but unfortunately their mother hasn’t. One of the twins looks like something is wrong with her. Then we help one of the helpers who work at the orphanage fold all the laundry. I have never seen a pile like that. I think she is really happy we came by, as I can’t imagine how long it would have taken her to fold the clothes. I guess there are about 30 children so it really adds up. Then it is time to leave so we can make it back before dark. But we will come back weekly.
Thank god Rachel is with me, as I cannot speak a word of Swahili. We get back on the Dalla dalla and this time it is a lot of fun. Everyone is talking and laughing like it’s a big social gathering inside the van. The lady across from me translates what is being said and apparently, one of the men has asked how much it would cost to spend the rest of his life with me. I laugh and wave my wedding finger. I have been wearing a ring as it is important here for a white woman traveling alone. When I show my hand, everyone starts laughing and it causes me to laugh and turn red at the same time.
When we get back I am so exhausted. We have dinner. The cooking is really good at the Amani center. I try Ugali for the first time, which is a rice paste you roll in your hands and dip into your food.
I feel happy with the simpler life here. I don’t even have electricity in my room but have had a very exciting day. I love it here and feel I was always meant to come to Africa.
Tuesday April 8th 2008: The first day
Arrived in Dar Es Salaam at 6:30 am. Mama Bakhita, the founder of the Amani center, greeted me. There were 2 other guests, Dr Ken and Dr Anne who are from the main source of fundraising for Amani. They form a support group in the UK called Friends of Amani.
We embark on a 3-hour journey back to Morogoro, Chamwino, where the Amani headquarters are.
On the way, I can see villagers, Masai men walking along the road. I can see into the alleys converging onto the main street. A lot of ads here are painted in fun drawing styles. There are also a lot of little shops selling fruit along the way. Instantly, I am fascinated. Everyone walks in a peaceful, relaxed pace. Many walk for miles from their home to work or school. People have a reserved yet intense look in their eyes but maybe I am just very romantic and jetlagged.
As we got deeper into the countryside, away from Dar Es Salaam, the vegetation grew more dense and varied. I could recognize the trees I have only seen in movies about Africa like for example a Baobab tree. We even see a Baboon walking alongside of the road. We stop along the way for lunch. I doubt my conversation is very interesting as I am so jetlagged!
When we arrive at the Amani center, we are greeted by the youth at the center who are singing a song and have bouquets for us. It is really nice and I am just taking it all in. I meet the other volunteers: Alice, Rachel, Michael and Nicole, from the U.K and Tara from the U.S. Then we are invited to sign the guest book, which I later on find out you have to do whenever visiting any institution here. I walk around the center. It is modest and charming. There is a small garden inside the compound and around the different rooms as well as a hall where they hold masses, day care and meetings. My bedroom is at the corner of the building and has 2 windows. I can hear all the sounds of the nature surrounding us ranging from birds singing to monkeys to dogs fighting…. Then I hear the choir sing. It is so beautiful, it sounds like the soundtrack to the movie Mission, but in Swahili.
I feel so happy to be here and not scared at all. If anything, I really feel at peace.
We embark on a 3-hour journey back to Morogoro, Chamwino, where the Amani headquarters are.
On the way, I can see villagers, Masai men walking along the road. I can see into the alleys converging onto the main street. A lot of ads here are painted in fun drawing styles. There are also a lot of little shops selling fruit along the way. Instantly, I am fascinated. Everyone walks in a peaceful, relaxed pace. Many walk for miles from their home to work or school. People have a reserved yet intense look in their eyes but maybe I am just very romantic and jetlagged.
As we got deeper into the countryside, away from Dar Es Salaam, the vegetation grew more dense and varied. I could recognize the trees I have only seen in movies about Africa like for example a Baobab tree. We even see a Baboon walking alongside of the road. We stop along the way for lunch. I doubt my conversation is very interesting as I am so jetlagged!
When we arrive at the Amani center, we are greeted by the youth at the center who are singing a song and have bouquets for us. It is really nice and I am just taking it all in. I meet the other volunteers: Alice, Rachel, Michael and Nicole, from the U.K and Tara from the U.S. Then we are invited to sign the guest book, which I later on find out you have to do whenever visiting any institution here. I walk around the center. It is modest and charming. There is a small garden inside the compound and around the different rooms as well as a hall where they hold masses, day care and meetings. My bedroom is at the corner of the building and has 2 windows. I can hear all the sounds of the nature surrounding us ranging from birds singing to monkeys to dogs fighting…. Then I hear the choir sing. It is so beautiful, it sounds like the soundtrack to the movie Mission, but in Swahili.
I feel so happy to be here and not scared at all. If anything, I really feel at peace.
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